The Complete Guide to Kumkumadi Oil: Benefits, uses, and how to choose the best one

Saffron, Sandalwood, Mulethi, Manjistha aren't just ‘feel-good’ ingredients from an old recipe book. They’re the foundation of Kumkumadi oil, an Ayurvedic formulation that's quietly become a favourite in skincare circles. But while everyone’s talking about its glow-boosting magic, very few are telling you why it works, how to use it right, and which version actually deserves a spot on your shelf. This isn’t just another ancient remedy getting a modern rebrand. This is a deep dive into what makes Kumkumadi tailam / oil special—and how to make it work for your skin.

What is Kumkumadi Oil (Tailam)?

Before you start using it, you deserve to know what it’s made of and why Ayurveda considers it liquid gold.

Kumkumadi oil, also known as Kumkumadi tailam, is a classical Ayurvedic blend of herbal extracts infused into oils like sesame. Its hero ingredient is saffron, known for brightening and improving complexion.

According to a study in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology, saffron has photoprotective and melanin-inhibiting properties that justify its role in brightening skin and reducing pigmentation over time.

But that’s just the beginning. The oil also contains manjistha (Indian madder), sandalwood, licorice, and sometimes vetiver, depending on the recipe.

The name comes from Kumkuma (saffron) and tailam (oil). It’s referenced in texts like Ashtanga Hridayam and the Bhaishajya Ratnavali, where it’s prescribed for enhancing skin radiance, treating hyperpigmentation, and reducing blemishes.

Top Benefits of Kumkumadi Oil for Your Skin

The benefits of Kumkumadi oil aren’t just hype; it’s hundreds of years of Ayurvedic wisdom validated by modern skin science. Here’s what Kumkumadi oil can actually do.

Improves Skin Radiance

Dull skin? Fatigue written all over your face? Kumkumadi oil’s combination of saffron and sandalwood increases blood circulation and enhances your skin's natural glow. In fact, a study published in Natural Product Communications showed that saffron extract improved skin tone and elasticity in participants after four weeks of use.

Reduces Pigmentation and Uneven Skin Tone

One of the most talked-about Kumkumadi oil benefits is its ability to fade pigmentation. Licorice root helps inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for melanin production. Over time, this evens out dark patches and sun spots without the irritation caused by chemical peels or retinoids.

Helps with Acne Scars and Blemishes

While it's not an acne treatment per se, ingredients like manjistha, mulethi and neem support skin healing and reduce post-acne marks. A clinical review in Pharmacognosy Reviews noted manjistha’s anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, which are ideal for calming the skin and promoting regeneration.

Moisturises Without Clogging Pores

Despite being an oil, kumkumadi face oil is surprisingly light. Sesame oil (its usual base) has a comedogenic rating of 1, meaning it’s low-risk for pore-clogging. It also contains linoleic acid, which helps balance sebum in oily skin. Perfect for skin that’s dry, flaky, or just temperamental.

How to Use Kumkumadi Oil the Right Way

Used wrong, even the best oils can backfire. Used right, Kumkumadi oil can become the most effective (and soothing) step in your routine. Here’s how to apply it correctly.

Step 1: Cleanse Your Face

Start with a clean canvas. Use a gentle cleanser to remove dirt, makeup, and sunscreen. Pat dry, don’t rub.

Step 2: Tone (Optional)

If your routine includes a toner, now’s the time. Go for a non-alcoholic one to keep things calm and hydrated.

Step 3: Take 2–3 Drops of Kumkumadi Oil

Warm the oil between your fingertips and gently press it into your skin. Don’t rub or drag it across; pressing ensures better absorption.

Step 4: Massage Gently

Using upward strokes, massage the oil into your face and neck for about 1–2 minutes. Think of it as a wind-down ritual, not a rush job.

Step 5: Leave it On

You can either leave it on overnight or, for sensitive skin, start with 30-minute applications and rinse off with lukewarm water. (This is traditional usage and still effective.)

When to Use: Day vs Night

Kumkumadi oil is best used at night, when your skin naturally repairs itself. If you use it during the day, always layer SPF on top of it; it contains photosensitive ingredients like saffron.

Read more:How to Use Kumkumadi Oil in Your Night Routine.

How Much to Use Based on Skin Type

Oily/Acne-prone: 1–2 drops, 2–3 times a week
Normal/Combination: 2–3 drops, nightly
Dry/Mature: 4–5 drops, nightly or mixed with moisturiser

Pro tip: Use less than you think. It’s concentrated for a reason.

Which Skin Types Can Use Kumkumadi Oil?

Think face oils are only for dry skin? Think again. When formulated correctly, Kumkumadi oil is suitable for all skin types

For oily or acne-prone skin, the key is a non-comedogenic formulation and minimal additives. Some brands add thick essential oils or synthetic fragrance; these are what cause breakouts, not the base recipe itself.

Hue & Shades’ Kumkumadi Oil, for instance, is free of silicones, artificial scents, and pore-clogging fillers. It’s designed for sensitive and acne-prone skin and has been dermatologically tested.

Dry Skin: Deep nourishment, improved texture
Oily Skin: Helps balance sebum over time
Combination Skin: Spot-apply on drier or pigmented areas
Sensitive Skin: Always do a patch test, but clean formulations are generally well tolerated

Conclusion: Should You Add Kumkumadi Oil to Your Routine?

Let’s recap: If you’re looking for a skincare product that actually does something for your pigmentation, dullness, or hydration, Kumkumadi Tailam earns its reputation. It’s rooted in science, steeped in Ayurveda, and if chosen wisely, deeply effective.

But don’t just pick any bottle off the shelf. Look for:

Transparent ingredient lists
Cold-infused preparation
No added colours, parabens, or synthetic fragrance
A base oil that suits your skin type (typically sesame or jojoba)

At Hue & Shades, we craft our Kumkumadi face oil using organic ingredients, traditionally infused and tested for efficacy, not just history.

Ready to try it? Buy Hue & Shades’ Kumkumadi Oil and see the difference a clean, honest formulation can make.